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Poros 2007 -
Our September Fortnight in Greece

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Recovery and Love Bay -
18th September 2007


  • A Walk into Poros.
  • Our Favorite Chapel.
  • The Church of Aghios Giorghios
  • Return to Love Bay.
  • A Meal at The Poseidon.

Love Bay, Poros
Love Bay, Poros

A Walk into Poros :

After yesterday's events, Jen and myself decided we needed a quiet day in Poros and Love Bay, so that's what we did. Although I did not make my usual detailed notes, the photographs I took did allow me to reconstruct our itinerary in some detail. Our first call was to the National Bank of Greece on the Paralia, whose ATM proved unable to check Jen's account asit operated in Euros and her account is in Pounds Sterling [GBP]. Nevertheless, she drew 80 Euros as a contingency fund, even though her part of our holiday Euros was almost unused - we had been using mine and I had not taken more than 100 Euros for tickets etc. to Athens. Relieved, we went on our way, up the steps past the Public Library, along near The Shop (see the Poros 2006 blog) and up steps towards the Clock Tower. The bottom two metres of the tower, to my dismay, was covered in graffiti; a fence put up to protect it had holes one could have walked through. A disappointing experience. Less so was the fantastic view west over the harbour - I took a good picture of the 'Apollo of Hellas' sternfirst at the wharf below. Although quiet now, that area was once the scene of the terrible Battle of Poros, when Admiral Miaulis blew up the flagship frigate 'Hellas' rather than surrender it to the national government. There is an obelisk with a bust of the first and only Governor of Greece, Kapodistrias, near the Poseidon Taverna, overlooking the scene of the Battle. For more details >>>.

National Bank of Greece, Poros
National Bank of Greece, Poros
Apollo of Hellas in Poros Harbour
Apollo of Hellas in Poros Harbour
Obelisk of Kapodistrias
Obelisk of Kapodistrias

Our Favorite Chapel and the Aghios Giorghios :

One place remained unchanged, that being our favourite chapel in Poros. This lovely little old shrine is possibly the oldest still open in Poros, with its icons presumably donated by families, a haven of peace and devotion on a hot and tiring day. We went in, lit a candle, left a little donation, made our devotions and took a few pictures. I must admit that the picture of me looks a bit zombiefied, but I was still rather shaken by the previous day; if I had not held onto that partition support, I might have been thrown onto the platform and been badly injured. Restored by the chapel, we went on our way towards the impressive Church of Saint George (Aghios Giorghios) that sits in the cleavage between the two hills. It sounds strange, but I did not try to go in, although I have been in many other Orthodox churches. The structure looks very well maintained, the loudspeaker on the tower showing that frequently the congregation in the square is larger than the Church can hold - something unusual to one used to the thin congregations of most English and Scots churches.

Jenny at the Chapel door
Jenny at the Chapel door
Jenny in the Chapel
Jenny in the Chapel
Myself in the Chapel
Myself in the Chapel

It is an ironical fact that the Church of Aghios Giorghios stands on or near the site where Aethra, the mother of Theseus, dedicated her temple to Athena Apaturia, the girls of Troezene dedicating their passing maidenhood to the Goddess before they married. The later ancient Greeks made it a machismo-charged place for boys to celebrate their arrival into manhood (at or after puberty), before the Church turned the place into something celebrating a different kind of chastity.

On our way back to the Hotel, we saw the three fire appliances of Poros neatly parked in the Naval Academy square - the fire tender, a tanker and a pickup truck, the last two with pumps and hoses at the back. It was a small reminder of the hazards of life in the Greek countryside - visitors must not light fires or throw away burning cigarette butts, for the loss of property and lives can be appalling. Also present was the municipal rubbish-truck, apparently also run by the efficient T.E. Poros staff.

Church of Aghios Giorghios, Poros
Church of Aghios Giorghios
Fire Brigade, T.E. Poros
Fire Brigade, T.E. Poros
Garden at Saga Hotel, Poros
Garden at Saga Hotel, Poros

Thinking that we nedded to lay in more supplies for the week, Jenny and I visited the supermarkets, including one near the Mermaid. We got what we needed, then went back to the Hotel for a snack lunch. On our return, I decided to visit the garden below and beyond the pool, discovering a pleasant haven of cool, with a variety of fruit trees and vines sitting in slight depressions. The depressions (and a network of polypropylene pipes) are part of the very necessary irrigation system, fed by overflows from the pool and the poolside bar sink.

Return to Love Bay ...

We had fallen in Love with Love Bay on our first visit and it continues to be a haven of peace and reassurance. We took the white bus there from the Corner Cafe for 1 Euro each, a pleasant and relaxing journey, noteworthy by seeing Frances and Dennis on the beach at Miklo Neorio (Little Neorio). The proprietress of Love Bay, my friend Sofianna, was elsewhere at the time, but there was an intelligent young man taking care of things in her absence. He takes his duties very seriously - the sand is raked clean of cigarette butts and rubbish and for the sum of 6.50 Euros he makes sure you have two good sunbeds and parasol for the day.

Love Bay is a place of sometimes quirky good humour and a subtle artistry. The toilet fee is advertised by a little plastic figurine on a bowl, her hand holding the all-important toilet key. There is a cartoon in the trees that parodies virtually everything that goes on, although I never saw a man surface with a fish in his mouth. Basically, it's a good place just to laze around and enjoy sun, sea and the scent of the pines, whilst having a decent sandy beach. To one side there is a small chapel, the property of neighbours; I gathered last year that Sofianna has already discussed its use for private weddings with the good-natured owners. Jen likes the place because it is well-sheltered and a sun-trap; she can also go for a walk in the sea (she doesn't swim yet) without stubbing her toes on stones. I only got one reasonably satisfactory shot of her - the sun was at the wrong angle, but she looked gorgeous.

For more on Sofianna's business at Love Bay, go to the pages for days 23rd, 26th and to the Love Bay Poros webpage >>>.

Toilet Attendant, Love Bay
Toilet Attendant, Love Bay
The Love Bay Cartoon
The Love Bay Cartoon
Jenny in Love Bay
Jenny in Love Bay

Fires, Helicopters and the Poseidon Taverna :

The return meant a walk through Megalo Neorio and a reminder of the fire, in the form of views of the burnt trees, the smell of pinewood ash, some burnt-out foundations and a rather graphic sign telling you to dial 191 if you saw a fire. Continuing our walk, we became aware of a helicopter's approach just after passing Miklo Neorio (Dennis and Frances not there, but a topless mother and her kids - not very Greek). The helicopter started to descend and I was rather amazed to see it heading for a landing in the TE Poros Naval Academy square, the fire engine and an ambulance parked nearby. A picture taken and a brief but equally-puzzled chat with some locals, we returned to the Saga Hotel, totally unaware of a rather terrible drama beside which our Athens experiences are small headaches.

Back at the Hotel and we found Frances and Dennis waiting in the Poolside Bar; they had decided to take us next day to ancient Epidavros (Epidauros) to see the Theatre and to Mykenis (Mycenaea) to visit the home of Agamemnon. The texts Jenny had tried to send to Frances had not worked, so to some extent they were a little concerned about us. Well, it was a big treat to look forwards to, but would mean an early start, so we decided to have a fairly early evening meal and strolled into Poros again.

That evening we went out to the Poseidon Taverna for what turned out to be a very pleasant and restful meal, choosing two mixed fish grills with side-salads and chips, with wine, water and bread as per usual, charged the modest sum of 17.50 Euros. I must say I felt very restored by this and our Cinema Cafe hot chocolate, grateful to Jenny for a day that had been a quiet return to the safety and comfort we had come to expect in our little niche in Greece.

Fire Sign and Foundations, Megalo Neorio
Fire Sign and Foundations
Rescue Helicopter at TE Poros
Rescue Helicopter at TE Poros
Fish grill, Poseidon Taverna
Fish grill, Poseidon Taverna

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© 2007 and 2008 Richard Edkins, Dalbeattie Internet.