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Poros 2007 -
Our September Fortnight in Greece

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To the Lighthouse ? -
15th September 2007


  • The Fire at Megalo Neorio.
  • Russian Bay.
  • To the...Sewage Farm ?
  • But No Lighthouse.
  • Kanali Beach.

Russian Bay - Ruins of Russian Naval Barracks
Russian Bay - Ruins of Russian Naval Barracks

The Fire at Megalo Neorio :

A very unusual day, because - like the dog that didn't bark in the night - little happened. Breakfasted with Jenny and then decided (a joint decision, I admit) that we would take the bus to Rossikos (Russian Bay) and then walk to the old lighthouse we had seen and photographed yesterday and last year. Went to the Corner Cafe to wait for the bus - quarter past and quarter to the hour - and it turned up on time. A Euro each, and we were off, to see in daylight the tremendous crescent of fire damage behind the beach and buildings at Megalo Neorio. Two houses burnt out, one already being rebuilt, and the woods badly fire-damaged. I resolved then to make sure that this blog warned visitors to BE CAREFUL WITH MATCHES, FIRES AND CIGARETTES. The results of even a minor electrical disaster (the transformer) were frightening, but this is a tiny example compared to the death and destruction on the mainland near Olympia.

Russian Bay ...

Mikro Neorio - a tiny beach between Kanali and Megalo Neorio - we went past on the bus, Jenny noticing that Dennis and Frances (Frances in a bikini) were sunning and bathing there. Jenny drew confidence from this and I think I will see her in a bikini after all. However, I think I prefer the beach at Love Bay to Mikro Neorio, although both are far sandier than Russian Bay.

At Rossikos we were dropped off, so walked down onto the beach, past the barracks built in the 1830s (More details) and discovered a rather nice little beach taverna, opened only this year. Quite modern and with flush toilets and a good selection of snacks. Carried on up onto the coast road, which goes to a rougher surface from tarmac, swinging up and round inland of a hill with the lighthouse on its far side. I got any excellent shots of Daskalio Island and its tiny church from this road, and some reasonable shots of Methana to the west; we were both rather surprised to see water taxis going to Daskalio on at least two occasions, but it may have been a charter. Closer to hand was a flock of goats - very photogenic, very sleepy and the first seen unfenced, trying to find shade in the increasingly hot day. They were near the most ramshackle farm I have seen in Greece, with a broken-down pickup with two deflated tyres beside the road. However, stranger things were to happen; we found ourselves nowhere near the lighthouse, but on a cliff looking north-northwest towards Methana and the Isle of Aegina. Closer to hand was a graffiti-covered wreck of an abandoned bus, with the glass smashed and parts missing. Further down the road, now turning east along the cliff, was a new structure I thought to be a waterworks, but which Frances later identified with a grin as the new (and unused) sewage works. I recall a tanker on the road beside it, which we were later to see emptying septic tanks, but of that more later. At the time, I thought I had found the borehole and purification plant, so merrily took photos before turning back in a despairing search for a path the lighthouse.

Russian Bay Snack Bar
Russian Bay Snack Bar
Fire Hazard Notice
Fire Hazard Notice
Daskalio Island
Daskalio Island

...But No Lighthouse ...

Finding a bulldozed track that seemed to run in the right direction, we ended up in a series of more bulldozed tracks in an apparently-abandoned olive farm, with olives the size of sloes. I worked out that this was land with access roads to building plots. In view of the uproar over claims of landowner arson, I was dismayed to find a rusty tin stuffed with paper rubbish and a lot of discarded water bottles. Disgraceful and very dangerous. We returned past the ramshackle farm, a little despondent, to stagger to the Rossikos Bay taverna, tired and thirsty and in need of the toilet. For 4 Euros, I bought Jenny a Diet Coke and myself a chilled Nestea lemon tea, then made use of the toilets - new, clean, well-maintained, with good handwash. Told the proprietor that I would list them on the Tavernas listing on the website. We then walked through to the drop-off point, but the bus did not come, so we set off for Love Bay. Ironically, the bus arrived just as we came round the corner, so we got on. Back through Neorio for a further view of the burn damage, then were dropped off at TE Poros at about 3pm. Notwitstanding the lighthouse, we had done rather well on 4 Euros bus and 4 Euros refreshments.

Goats by the Road
Goats by the Road
View of Methana and Aegina
View of Methana and Aegina
Poros Sewage Treatment Works
Poros Sewage Treatment Works

Kanali Beach ...

Had a very late 'lunch' at the Saga of Tea, yoghurt, honey and biscuits, before Jenny decided that she wanted to go to Kanali Beach to sun a bit, and I teased into putting her bikini on. We found the canal had a large sand bank blocking it, but the beach was OK and warm, if fairly breezy. We got two sunbeds and a parasol for 4 Euros, then settled down to enjoy the sun (Jenny) and the view (both). Fabulous views southwest towards Limonodasses (the Lemon Groves), Bourtzi Island, the back of Poros (Death Road - see Poros 2006) and TE Poros, with to the east the Askeli Beach and Monastery Bay. Even better, there was someone on a sailboard, and a number of swimmers in the water, including a remarkably resolute dark haired lady in a lime green bikini. Jen and myself wondered if the breeze would drive the woman out, but presumably she was warmer in the sea than on the shore, for she was there at least twenty minutes. Jen got started on her tan and wanted something to read, pinching my 'Living With Mr. Darcy' book borrowed from the library. Not that I cared much, for I was a good boy and wrote up the blog, between sneaking photos of Jenny looking gorgeous. Jen sitting on a sunbed in her bikini reading is a very repeatable sight - must get her to do it more often, although she has thoughts of a different colour bikini. But I also got her looking seawards in contemplative mood, for thoughts of Hydra, Spetses and Monastery Bay, were in her mind.

The evening was a lot qieter than the previous night. We went to our old haunts at the Rota Taverna, for a change in menu and venue. I had a chicken in cream and mushroom sauce for 8.50 Euros, Jen had an 8 Euro moussaka, wine and water as before. We took a turn around the adjacent shops and alleyways, including a pleasant check visit to the Caravella Taverna, then back to Cinema Cafe minus Dennis and Frances, to have an evening chocolate.

Jenny at Kanali Beach
Jenny at Kanali Beach
Askeli from Kanali Beach
Askeli from Kanali Beach
Jenny at Cinema Cafe on Balcony
Jenny at Cinema Cafe

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